Birding La Mancha!

Moustached Warbler - Paul French

I have reached the conclusion I have become staid, happy to spend my non touring days in my own area. Most people would sympathise given the local area for me is the Serranía de Ronda, a veritable heaven for wildlife. Who needs to travel further afield when your local patch is so rich in fauna and flora? These facts have very much contrived to make yours truly somewhat a couch potato, comfortable, unadventurous and hence denying myself the pleasures of new discoveries. An obligation to help with organising an excursion for the Andalucia Bird Society led me to recently visit Castile La Mancha, an otherwise unheard of destination and certainly an area whose natural heritage is so understated. What gems the areas around or close to Almagro are! With open steppe, small mountain ranges, wetland and rich Dehesa, the question remains, why did it take me so long to visit this area?

Estefania and Vincente

My introduction to the La Mancha fauna and flora came via the able and expert guidance of Vicente Malagón Sanroma and his lovely wife Estefania. Their passion and local knowledge conspired to make my visit a huge success and left me wanting a whole lot more. If ever you get to this area, and believe me you should, then take a look at the guide’s own website for an idea of the excursions on offer by these two most impressionable guides. Our day started with a visit to the lagoon Navaseca and gave great views of terns, wildfowl, waders and small passerines frequenting the extensive reedbeds surrounding the large open body of the lagoon. Greater Flamingo gave colour, whilst Little Bittern provided excitement. With so many birds, it was nice to see Red-crested Pochard, Black-necked Grebe and also Coots feeding their busy youngsters.

Greater Flamingo

It was such a nuisance only to have one day in the area, it became obvious in a short time that I would have to return to appreciate all that was on offer. So many sites and no time to visit them all, but I was determined to take a look at and walk around the wetland natural park of the Tablas de Daimiel. There are boardwalk routes here taking you through reedbeds, linking various islets and walks through some of the most ancient Tamarisk trees in Spain. The area is home to many aquatic plants and birds, the most notable bird for me was Moustached Warbler, but that would be cherry picking as so many birds attracted my attention. Rather than write more on this occasion, I leave you with a few photos taken on the day!

Coot with young

Great-crested Grebe

Poppies create an island of colour

Red-crested Pochard

Why not join Peter on one of the many day tours he makes throughout the region, please see our website for more detailed information.

You can arrange your own guided holidays or long weekend breaks that include airport collection and transport, to find out more visit our tailored holiday webpage.

Orchids of La Serranía de Ronda – 1

Limodorum abortivum Violet Limodore

I guess orchids have as wide appeal as any plant family and certainly they attract special attention from visitors to the Serranía de Ronda. Of course the local area supports some spectacular plant families, with over 2,000 species and sub species the area has lots to offer the botanist and lover of wild flowers. Here I give you just a tiny glimpse of our orchids and I hope to feature other plant families in the near future. I hope you enjoy this small sample? For groups or individuals who require a guided tour to the plant hot spots of this area, please look here at the link for ‘walking in flowers’.

Ophrys tenthredinifera Sawfly Orchid

Ophrys picta  Small Woodcock orchid

Ophrys bombiflora Bumblebee orchid

Orchis italica Naked man orchid

Ophrys lutea Yellow Bee Orchid

Ophrys speculum ssp speculum  Mirror Orchid

Morocco – Bird Photography Tour

I have just returned from visiting Morocco again, leading a group, this time on a bird photography tour. I have now led over 30 tours to this wonderful destination, I must be considered some kind of veteran tour leader as far as Morocco is concerned? Our itinerary started with meeting-up in Casablanca, the most populated city in Morocco, then making our way to the small fishing town of Larache. The area around Larache is an interesting mixture of marshes, beaches and saltpans, not far away and within easy reach is Merja Zerga, famous for being the last recorded wintering area for Slender-billed Curlew. From the Atlantic coast we then visited the area of Ilfrane, a mixture of cedar forests and rock strewn plains with lakes. Contrasting landscapes, mixed and fringe habitats made for a rich diversity of birdlife.

Our first day involved driving along the coast road from Casablanca to Rabat. The beach areas were surprisingly void of gull species, but the headlands were full of migrant wheatears with Oenanthe.o.leucorhoa the dominant bird and in the middle of its extraordinary migration which will end in Greenland and the Labrador Peninsula! Whinchat and Yellow Wagtail were also migrating in large numbers. Shortly after Rabat we visited Lac de Sidi Bourhaba, an attractive lake surrounded by woodland and always worth making time to view for such species as White-headed Duck and Marbled Teal (Duck). The area was not to disappoint with good numbers of Marsh Harrier and Black Kite hawking the woodlands and the reedbeds, but the star of the day were 6 Ferruginous Duck. Red-crested Pochard was present with their ducklings, so we were pleased we made the time to visit.

Day two involved a visit and also a boat trip around the lagoon at Merja Zerga. The tidal marsh area holds good numbers of gull, tern and shorebird species, so it was good to witness waders showing the beginnings of summer plumage and Slender-billed Gull in breeding plumage, such an elegant gull. Apart from Booted Eagle, Marsh Harrier and Lesser Kestrel raptors were in short supply, although later we saw a Sparrowhawk take a lark from a field nearby! On a disappointing note we went in search of Marsh Owl with a local guide and on arriving at a ‘known’ site, we were joined by a marauding bunch of children who proceeded to charge around the marsh fringes to flush the poor owl. It was a harrowing experience, one which I will never repeat at any price, much better to visit this area in the winter for this species, where they can be observed at a roost site without causing disturbance to them. We then searched my own specific site at Larache for Moustached Warbler and had extremely good views of a singing male, so we ended on a high note.

Day three involved a fairly lengthy journey to Ilfrane. On our approach we searched the extensive mixed oak forest and were soon seeing Levaillant’s Woodpecker, Roller, Firecrest, Pied Flycatcher, Moroccan Magpie and of course typical forest birds such as Mistle Thrush. Overhead and just before entering the town we saw a couple of Honey Buzzard, then we proceeded to our hotel on the main road to Azrou, situated on a forest trail near to Ougmes. An excursion through the pinsapo forest, which more or less bordered the hotel, produced Moussier’s Redstart, Cirl Bunting, Woodlark, ST Treecreeper, both Great-spotted and Levaillant’s Woodpecker, 00’s Chaffinch and several tit and finch species. Joining the Boulemane to Ilfrane road we also managed great views of Seebohm’s and Black-eared Wheatear. Winding our way down to Ilfrane the river that accompanied the roadside held various species including Red-knobbed (Crested) Coot. Arriving at our hotel for the next two nights, we were greeted by a flock of Alpine Chough, ending our birding day in style.

Day four and the weather closed in. Mist, cold and then later snow curtailed activities, but we did explore the lake route north of Ilfrane, which looked very promising. After a lunch in the town we turned-in for a siesta and rest, we were beaten by worsening conditions.

Day five and determined to make up for the previous day’s disappointment, we set-off into the forest area near to the hotel. We wanted a few target birds for our photographic journal; top of the list was Atlas Flycatcher. We started with good showings by Woodlark, Levaillant’s Woodpecker, Moussier’s Redstart, Pied and Spotted Flycatcher. It took us a couple of hours and suffering a cold start to the morning, before we eventually found our Atlas Flycatcher, great photos were taken, but none by me as I was kept busy locating and relocating the male. Hoopoe and male Common Redstart came close and also allowed for great photo opportunities. Satiated we headed back to the route for the lakes, but principally Dayet Aoua. We were able to capture some great shots of Red-knobbed Coot, Hawfinch and some amazing scenes of Black-necked Grebe, on one islet there was a colony of nesting birds that numbered in excess of 300 pairs, yes more than 300! Certainly I have never witnessed such a scene for Black-necked Grebe, incredible. Our day ended with a spectacle that denied us an opportunity as it happened so quickly, we spotted a couple of Common Cuckoo on a rock pile and got ourselves close enough to photograph them, when and without warning a Booted Eagle swooped in an attempt to catch one of our birds. It missed, but of course our two cuckoos were spooked and didn’t return, a nearby male Cirl Bunting gave some consolation by allowing a very close approach and completed our photos for the day and our tour.

To join me on various tours in Morocco or to tailor your own guided tour, please see the link below:

Birding Holidays in Morocco

Why not tailor your own tour with no minimum or maximum number of people and we will provide the guide and help with such things as transport and accommodation, to find out more please see the link below:

Tailor Made Tours

The Joy of Serrania de Ronda – Andalucia

Springtime has to be one of the most exciting times of the year for me. It is a time of renewal, rebirth and freshness, to both the landscape and local wildlife. Birds are starting to arrive from their faraway winter quarters, flowers are raising their heads to be noticed and our daylight hours are stretching to allow more of our time spent in the big outdoors. It is a busy time as bird song resonates throughout the Serrania, a ritual by males to attract and entice females for an inspection of their new dress and chosen territory; insects are in a hurry to emerge and harvest the richness of pollen and greenery. Of course it happens to be a busy time too for the intrepid wildlife guide as visitors arrive to be shown the wonders of my mountains.

Most days now are spent either guiding groups for various tour companies visiting here or guiding as an independent day trip guide. Even on those rare days when I am free to do my own bidding, I choose to indulge myself by visiting favourite and hidden gems for birds and flowers, accompanied by cameras and wallowing in the tranquillity solitude can afford. After winter it is exciting to explore the area to see if the familiar has reappeared and find new places, sometimes making new discoveries! Each year is different and each produces rewards for anyone who loves nature, scenery and just being, feeling and breathing our wonderful natural heritage. Most of all, it is such a privilege to share my experience and knowledge of such a beautiful part of our world with so many friends and like minded people.

Here I try to give you a small token of what spring means to me here in the Serrania de Ronda, a few photos that help illustrate what we can see here. I very much hope you enjoy these small offerings and that you too are enjoying your area and springtime?

So much to see and so little time to write more or illustrate more of our wildlife in this blog offering, but I hope you will keep an eye on future posts and I will try and show you more of this natural gem that is the Serrania de Ronda.

To Join Peter on his tours in Andalucia and his local area, please visit Spanish Nature

Yellow Wagtail - a complex species

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava are without doubt a complex species and cause of much confusion when determining race. Here in the southern most reaches of the Iberian Peninsula we are able to witness several races, both during spring and autumn migration. The fact we observe so many races does not lessen the complicated process of correctly identifying the geographical races and of course the added complexity of hybrids. Certainly I find these wonderfully colourful and attractive birds a mix of the curious and a compelling subject for study.

Smallest, most compact of west Palearctic wagtails, with form and silhouette more like a large pipit. Plumage of both adult and (most) 1st-winter birds basically yellow below and on patterned edges of wing-feathers. Adult breeding ♂♂ of the many races differ in pattern of green, bluish grey and black crowns, variable yellow or white supercilia, and variable white or yellow chins and throats. ♀♀ and immatures may show hints of ♂♂’s pattern but many racially are inseparable. In winter even ♂♂ may lose racial characters. Identification also complicated by frequent occurrence of racial hybrids and unusually pale birds.

Yellow Wagtail is a wagtail with complex systematics and morphology, subject to confusion with other species and doubts in racial identifications. The British and extreme west European race flavissima most distinctive, with green and yellow head, but blue- and grey-headed forms are less easy to separate. It is unlikely to be mistaken for other wagtail species except for the risk of confusion with Citrine Wagtail in both adult and sub-adult plumage.

Most populations are migratory, wintering in the Afrotropics, India, and south-east Asia. The Egyptian race is largely resident, and some parts of the breeding range in north-west Africa and southern Spain occupied throughout the winter, with the possibility that some individuals are resident.

Several factors make this a particularly well documented migrant: large populations; conspicuous (mostly diurnal) movement; use of huge communal roosts, both on migration and in winter, facilitating ringing; assumption by ♂♂ of racially distinct breeding plumage shortly before spring migration. On the other hand, confusion can arise through racial intermediates and disjunct pattern of geographical variation. Precise wintering areas of the various races are not well established, but largely lie between south-east and south-west of their respective breeding areas.

Movement is broad-front in both spring and autumn, with numerous sightings of migrants at sea in all areas. Autumn passage in Switzerland has been noted as early as late July, but main passage begins during the second half of August and peaks through September, usually to end abruptly in early October, though individuals have been noted still passing in the first third of November. At the Strait of Gibraltar, passage extends from early August to early November peaking mid-September. Arrives in Afrotropics in late September, further south in October. Movement north in spring, after build-up of fat just south of Sahara, is also on a broad front, starting in March and extending to early May. ♂♂ reach breeding grounds before ♀♀; arrivals are from late March in south, west, and much of central Europe, from mid-April in Moscow area, and from early May or early June in Lapland.

Many records occur of birds resembling a particular race well outside that race’s normal range, but some (at least) of these are part of the species’ normal variability and do not necessarily indicate vagrancy. Birds showing the characters of several races have been recorded in Britain, for example, mainly in spring and sometimes well outside their normal range: continental nominate flava occurs regularly and has bred occasionally.

Geographical variation is both marked and complex; mainly involving colour of ♂ breeding plumage, less so other plumages; also (but scarcely) size. 2 complexes recognized, often considered separate species: (1) lutea complex (lutea, flavissima, extralimital taivana); (2) flava complex (all other races). Every member of the lutea complex overlaps partly or fully with flava complex, apparently with limited interbreeding, though some gene-flow between the complexes occurs, and members of lutea complex are perhaps not closely related to each other as measurements and structure of each are closer to the neighbouring member of flava complex than to other members of lutea complex. The flava complex is subdivided into 3 groups: grey-headed thunbergi group in north, blue-headed nominate flava group in mainly temperate latitudes, and black-headed feldegg group in south, from Balkan countries to eastern Kazakhstan. Each of these groups are sometimes considered a separate species also, but as they are connected by hybridization zones of variable width, are better combined into a single highly polytypic species. Breeding ♂♂ of all races readily separable in colour, apart from birds of unstable local populations in hybridization zones.

The following races breed in west Palearctic: lutea (basin of lower Volga north to Kazan’ and Perm’, eastwards); flavissima (Britain and locally on continental coast of north-west Europe); nominate flava (most of Europe); cinereocapilla (Italy and north-west Yugoslavia); iberiae (south-west France, Iberia, and north-west Africa); pygmaea (Egypt); thunbergi (Norway east to northern Russia); feldegg (Balkans east to Caspian); beema (lower Volga).

To accompany Peter on a birding tour please visit his website Spanish Nature

Doñana - The shame of Doñana

Guy Mountfort was the prime instigator of the successful financing for purchasing land that saved the Doñana as we know it today. And yet you would never know it, unless you read various literature and references made in some official documents. It simply beggars belief that no visitor centre, no monument, no plaque or Park literature pays respect to the saviour of the land which forms the main part of this wonderful National Park.

1960 rumours were heard developers had their sights on the lands of the Doñana  By 1961 these rumours were confirmed, there were plans for a holiday camp stretching the full length of the sand beaches of the Doñana and the worst was plans to drain the protective eastern barrier of the marismas! The most notable of local people to side with the crusade of saving the area were Don Manuel and Don Mauricio González, as part owners of the Coto, with much to gain financially from the proposed developments; they heroically supported efforts to preserve it.

Money was needed to stem the advances of developers and Guy Mountfort mobilised support, a move that led to the renowned formation of the World Wildlife Fund. So eventually money was raised and with the support of the Spanish Government the area was purchased and the National Park came into being. Whilst local park centres and reserve areas pay tribute to local Spanish pioneers, just where is the local recognition for the hero and champion of the Doñana, Guy Mountfort? For me it is an extremely sad omission by national and local authorities alike. Be sure if it were not for Guy Mountfort, there would be NO Doñana!!

Birds of Morocco - Part One

I hope you enjoy reading a brief introduction to some of the birds found in Morocco, this the first of many blogs on birds in Morocco, and here I refer to 3 favourite species I love to see on my visits to this great birding destination. It is actually very difficult to sit down and write an article about the birds of Morocco without also waxing lyrical regarding the scenery, people and history of this mystical country. I guess, for the uninitiated, Morocco most probably conjures-up visions of just sand and dust. Nothing could be further from the truth! Conditions here, despite its close proximity to Europe, are very different with wadis, deserts, plains, forest, mountains, coasts and islands. The diversity of these habitats are reflected in the number of bird species found in this most exotic of north African countries, with over 450 species it is a must visit country for any with a passion for our feathered friends.

Atlas Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris atlas

Such a beautiful looking lark, this species has run the gauntlet of name changes in recent times, going from Shore Lark to Horned Lark and now, just like the Pied Flycatcher, has seen another change to Atlas Horned Lark. Whatever the powers that be decide, it is a species both hard to find and in equal measure rewarding when you do. If you indulge in bird listing or species collection, then it’s to Morocco you will have to go to add this species.

The Atlas Horned Lark, as the name suggests, is largely confined to the higher reaches of the Moyen and Haut Atlas ranges of mountains in Morocco, where it is locally common. It is resident and only subject to altitudinal dispersal rather than full blown migration. When winters are particularly bad and snowfall is heavy in the higher reaches, these birds can descend to the foothills, but very rarely to much lower elevations. Good areas to find them are the Tizi-n-Tichka pass and the ski resort of Oukaimeden, although they have a habit of proving difficult to spot, often feeding around cushion plants and resting away from the windward side of these thick cushion plants.

Desert Sparrow Passer simplex saharae

I think I will always remember my first real sighting of this elegant sparrow, easy everyone had told me, just pop along to the Café Yasmina! Well the first sighting I had was a disappointing 300m away through a scope! On several days’ expedition, almost exclusively to find this bird, we ended-up being frustrated. We had done our homework and a reoccurring remark in literature was the frequency by which they could be discovered around camel droppings. Needless to say we didn’t find any using this search criterion, but I guess we did become overnight experts on camel droppings! We blazed the recommend trails, crossed countless and baron sandy desert areas, all to no avail. Eventually we decided to give it up and just enjoy yet another visit to our favourite Sahara region that is Morocco.

Needless to say we finally caught up with these sparrows and in an area we really weren’t expecting to, M’Hamed, the end of the road in the Draa Valley. In the end it was rewarding and has continued to thrill on each subsequent visit. Like a London bus, we didn’t find one, we found several. Now they are a regular whenever we tour Morocco and we have our own little private place where more recently we have counted near 40 individuals flocking together. Oh, and yes the wait was worth it, they really are a most attractive bird, both the female and male, in fact the two sexes look totally different and so give you the feeling of two species for one!

Northern Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita

Classified as a critically endangered species the bald ibis is an unsurprising popular target bird for many visiting birdwatchers. Although it might also qualify for membership of the beautifully ugly brigade, it is nonetheless a superb reason for birding Morocco. Subject to some local projects for protecting both breeding and feeding areas, the population seems stable for now, but the future remains far from certain with coastal and inland developments continuing to threaten current protection and conservation work.

The Atlantic Ocean coastal stretch, both north and south of Agadir, is the main area for this ibis. The bird is normally found feeding a little inland from the main breeding area and as good a place to find them is in and around the Oued Massa nature reserve. North of the reserve is open and sparsely vegetated where these birds look for a favourite food scorpions! South of the reserve the local refuge tip near to Sidi-Ouassai is always worth a look as they are often there scavenging among the refuse. Also south of the village a track passes along the clifftops where these birds can often be seen in flight and feeding among scrub.

To present all the birds and their habitats in Morocco will require several blogs and although there are so many other favourites of mine not included in this brief introduction, I hope you will at least be tempted to visit this wonderful destination at least once in your lifetime.

To join me on various tours in Morocco, please see the link below:

Birding Holidays in Morocco

Owls – Travelling is a hoot!

Yes, yes, I know, I am one very lucky and privileged person to get to lead and guide wildlife tours all around the world! I appreciate the opportunities and one way to show it is to share experiences here on my blog. I have never been a bird lister or keep account of the number of species I’ve seen, but I am constantly reminded of why I love birds. On virtually every tour there are birds that make an impression and stick around in my memory, very often my first thoughts of a country are associated with birds I’ve seen there. I have now been birding, researching, drawing and writing about these great creatures for over 50 years, so some of my blogs get written as a whim, a recollection of some particular bird or sometimes I get inspired when I study one of the many emails I receive asking for help on an id. More recently I had the thrill, although no good photographs, of seeing Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl and both colour phases too! The experience was a reminder of what a wonderfully diverse and appealing family owls are, which leads me to the thoughts behind this particular blog, owls!

I like so many families of birds, that it becomes impossible, almost, to choose a favourite. I guess the group of wheatear species tend to hold a special place in my life, but how on earth do I choose any others when I get so enthused by so many? Trogons, hummingbirds, raptors, tanagers and so the list goes on. I have friends who love nothing better than seabirds, others that believe there are only two types of bird in the world – Birds of Prey and Prey!! Yet, who doesn’t like owls? Fluffy, characters, wide-eyed and somehow endearing, owls tend to be a great favourite among adults and children alike. Here I share a few favourite owl species from my travels and very much hope you enjoy this pictorial journey across several continents.

Europe.

Long-eared Owl

Little Owl

Tawny Owl

Americas.

Striped Owl

Crested Owl

Tawny-bellied Screech Owl

Africa.

Spotted Eagle Owl

Verreaux's Eagle Owl

African Scops Owl

Asia.

Asian Barred Owlet

Brown Fish Owl

Spotted Owlet

You can join Peter’s travels on any of his tours worldwide. Why not take a look at the link to tours visiting various continents below:

Europe

Africa

Americas

Asia

Peter also does day tours and self-made holidays in Spain, to learn more see the links below:

Day Tours

Tailormade Holidays and Short Breaks